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Car Alternator Experiments
#11
ah. ok. i get your drift..?

how about no rotation and just pulsing the armature winding...

mags
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#12
(12-05-2024, 02:10 PM)magluvin Wrote: ah. ok.  i get your drift..?

how about no rotation and just pulsing the armature winding...

mags

So far, besides verifying the info I was looking to prove,  I have tried the following:

AC into the armature with no motion..  =  VERY Low Output

AC into Armature WHILE Rotating =  Output DOES go up with RPM, and no noticeable drag..  BUT Output is MUCH worse than DC, and pretty damn low.  

I have Not tried one polarity pulses .  I will probably get around to more experimenting including using a hall sensor to detect rotor position and delivering current at specific timings, etc.    I can also try your suggestion of pulses with no rotation .  But I have a feeling that IF Full AC did that poorly, pulses will probably be a poor performer also.
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#13
It's the moving wave of alternating flux from the rotor fingers, or more specifically, the field in the air gap between the fingers that needs emulating.
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#14
Although I waver around, virtual rotating magnetic fields is still my main focus.  And I have the circuit that can control up to a 24 pole rotor.  

Knowing that the alternator stator is specifically designed to output massive power from a rotating field, using the existing stator may be a safe bet, rather than reinventing the wheel, which I will never meet the accuracy and quality of.  So here is the stator

   

The stator has 3 phases, 12 coils per phase.  The original rotor has 12 poles.  SO I am attempting to mimic the 12 pole rotor in a fashion that does not physically move..

This is the form..  I will do an epoxy / iron powder poured core to make the rotor dimensions near perfect for the stator.  

   

There are a few wiring methods I am considering..  But basically, my circuit will rotate the field in this rotor armature with no physical motion.  Trying my best to match the original altenators specifics and design.

That is the plan...
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#15
Here is the pour..  It's over 90% iron powder..

   

It fits perfectly inside the stator..  But there is a 1mm gap in each side for the plastic walls.

Give this sucker a day or two to cure, then continue
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#16
The epoxy mix must have been off because curing is super slow, Slower than usual.  But no matter..  I printed out a top piece to slide in and placed a layer of hot glue to seal it off.  It seems OK to test.    But if I do it again, I think there is no need for epoxy.  Next run (if there is one) I will just fill the form with iron powder, pack it in, then seal the top.

Anyway, I have decided to wind the rotor as an overlapping serpentine coil.  (to get the most bang for my buck).  I have a wiring plan that should keep it organized and ensure they coils overlap in an alternating pattern, thus ensuring both coils have the exact same amount of turns and resistance. 

Here is my hand-winding rig for this project

   

I am not sure exactly how much wire this core will take, but I have 4.8 ohms worth of 24 gauge on each reel..

This winding method will give me 2 input circuits..  Which will allow me to try with both the Figuera resistor setup and 2 phase AC shifted by 90 degrees. 

I got some winding and more printing to do before I start the circuit hookup, so progress is coming along
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#17
Well I made the rotor and tested..  NO OUTPUT AT ALL!   My poles count is wrong!

With a 12 slot rotor, using 2 phases 90 degrees apart, I end up having 6 pole rotor against a 12 pole stator.  Which equals ABSOLUTELY ZERO output..  Which is exactly what I have..

Which means, to use this stator, I have to make 24 slots in the rotor..  I am not sure I can because the the rotor diameter is only 96mm.  It's gonna be a really tight wind!

Alas, I will print one out and see if it's possible
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