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ORION- Released Into the Public Domain
#21
(11-01-2025, 08:58 AM)SEYCHELLES Wrote: Good on you. You are letting THE GENIE out of the lamp, be careful what wish you ask for.

Well do me a favor and download the attachment.  If I go silent, let the world know it happened after I released this paper..

This is the secret recipe.  Fully Disclosed.


.pdf   dual rotation armature.pdf (Size: 74.46 KB / Downloads: 102)
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#22
(11-01-2025, 10:58 AM)Jim Mac Wrote:
(11-01-2025, 08:58 AM)SEYCHELLES Wrote: Good on you. You are letting THE GENIE out of the lamp, be careful what wish you ask for.

Well do me a favor and download the attachment.  If I go silent, let the world know it happened after I released this paper..
This is the secret recipe.  Fully Disclosed.
Hello. The connection is a bit unclear. You supply power to the collector meter and the motor that rotates the collector, but you take it from the stator. It's also unclear how to rewind the collector. Could you show me more details?

Greetings. It's a bit unclear about the connection: are you supplying power to the commutator brushes and the motor that rotates the commutator, and taking it from the stator? It's not entirely clear how to rewind the commutator—could you show in more detail?
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#23
(11-01-2025, 12:08 PM)olegzhu Wrote: Hello. The connection is a bit unclear. You supply power to the collector meter and the motor that rotates the collector, but you take it from the stator. It's also unclear how to rewind the collector. Could you show me more details?

I am unsure what "Collector meter" refers to, but the diagram shows the commutator and armature winding pattern.  The blue circles are the numbered commutator contacts. The center is the Full-Pitch windings on the armature. The purple is the connections from commutator contacts to the armature coils. And the gray squares are the brush location.

Output coils on a stator must be placed around the rotating armature. Outside power feeds the DC brushes and a separate motor starts the machine. Once the induced output is adequate to sustain rotation of the machine, the motor can be removed and the generator rotates itself with no drive motor. 

Outside power is still required at this time to feed the brushes. It is yet to be determined if the output can be looped to feed the brushes.  The build will have to be optimized to determine this.  

No overunity is claimed at this point, but it PROVES Lenz counter torque can be used to replace the motor on an electromagnetic generator. 

I have another video set to private demonstrating how it powers a light bulb and uses the output's magnetic field to sustain rotation. Once the output bulb is disconnected, the generator stops spinning.  PM me is you wish to see it
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#24
(11-01-2025, 12:22 PM)Jim Mac Wrote:
(11-01-2025, 12:08 PM)olegzhu Wrote: Hello. The connection is a bit unclear. You supply power to the collector meter and the motor that rotates the collector, but you take it from the stator. It's also unclear how to rewind the collector. Could you show me more details?

I am unsure what "Collector meter" refers to, but the diagram shows the commutator and armature winding pattern.  The blue circles are the numbered commutator contacts. The center is the Full-Pitch windings on the armature. The purple is the connections from commutator contacts to the armature coils. And the gray squares are the brush location.

Output coils on a stator must be placed around the rotating armature. Outside power feeds the DC brushes and a separate motor starts the machine. Once the induced output is adequate to sustain rotation of the machine, the motor can be removed and the generator rotates itself with no drive motor. 

Outside power is still required at this time to feed the brushes. It is yet to be determined if the output can be looped to feed the brushes.  The build will have to be optimized to determine this.  

No overunity is claimed at this point, but it PROVES Lenz counter torque can be used to replace the motor on an electromagnetic generator. 

I have another video set to private demonstrating how it powers a light bulb and uses the output's magnetic field to sustain rotation. Once the output bulb is disconnected, the generator stops spinning.  PM me is you wish to see it

Yes, I want to see.

Is the armature winding standard?
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#25
(11-01-2025, 12:53 PM)olegzhu Wrote: Yes, I want to see.

Is the armature winding standard?

Not sure why you are asking this when I just posted the armature wiring PDF. No, the armature must be stripped and rewound in an exact pattern as shown in the PDF so the field rotates counter to the physical armature.

I will send the video in a few
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#26
Alright.. I will wait.
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#27
Why my post got deleted??
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#28
(11-01-2025, 02:43 PM)RafalKielesinski Wrote: Why my post got deleted??

Please do not post AI generated pages summarizing my document here.  Your AI generated documented was using embodiment #1 when I am showing embodiment #2 but modified so the brushes do not move..  We do not need confusion here.  There is no need to post AI's summary, as I (the creator of the document, method, and the person who built it) am here answering questions and explaining it. 

If you want to build it,  find an armature and stator and show me pics. I will give my opinion if it is decent for the task at hand.
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#29
Ok, No problem
Is this engine Ok?

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0D2Y1Q7JX/ref=...437&sr=8-1
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#30
I just dug-up another stator and armature that looks like a good fit for a 2nd (improved) build.

   

I will document the build so viewers can see.  The plan is to wind the armature with thinner gauge wire than last time so I can optimize amp-turns and produce a condensed field without an unruly amounts input current.   Since the stator has 24 slots, it is compatible with a 3 phase output system.

So first step is to design the mounts that hold the brushes and bearings - and get it all in place before winding.  Last think you want to do is wind it all then scrape the varnish off the wire while building...

While the mount is printing, I will break out my epoxy resin and coat the stator with a protective layer. This allows direct-winding the stator while minimizing shorting to the stator without needing to use fish paper or slot plastic.

Now I do have other armatures I would like to work with, but they are covered in varnish and epoxy and I am afraid i will damage the commutators when I try to remove it.  I would also like to try building this with a regular round commutator, but I am not sure I have a match.  So we will see where this leads. 

Since there is now interest in this, I will show each step more closely so replicators can follow.
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