ORION- Released Into the Public Domain

[Jim Mac]

Ok, No problem
Is this engine Ok?

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0D2Y1Q7JX/ref=...437&sr=8-1

That's a DC motor that will have an armature, commutator, and field magnets.  The armature and commutator may work. You will also need to acquire an output stator that fits this armature.  The results improve significantly when multi-phase output is used so even if you find a decent universal motor, the stator is usually single phase output.  ideally as stated, you want multiphase output.

That motor will most likely have 2 brushes at 180 degrees, so the brush holders will have to be redesigned to align the brushes at 90 degrees.  Which probably means making a new custom end-bell.

Another thing to keep in mind is if that motor is going to be a nightmare to strip down.  if it is covered in epoxy and varnish, it can be very difficult removing the windings without damaging the laminations or commutator.

Here's what I will use on my next build

   

The brush holder is pre-designed for 4 brushes, so I can easily use only 2 placed at 90.  The stator has plenty of slots to accommodate multiphase output. And the armature / commutator is easy to unwind and strip without lots of varnish.

It may be better bringing $50 to the scrap yard and asking them if you can dig through their motor boxes.  Bring home a crate of motors for cheap that you can mix and match.  That's what I do sometimes.

[RafalKielesinski]

Could you recommend which engine to buy? I thise Makita drill engine?

[olegzhu]

What engine is that anchor from?

[Jim Mac]

I haven't found a motor that has all the pieces yet, I am mixing and matching.  I am using the armature (anchor) and brush assembly from a 2,000lb winch here-   WINCH LINK

And the stators are from dish washer motors.

There are absolutely better armatures out there, but how hard will they be to strip?  Makita is probably covered in enamel and epoxy as they are a name brand.  If it does have heavy coatings, the only way i found to strip them is with fire. So better order a replacement commutator also, because it probably won't survive.

Minn Kota trolling motors have a nice large armature and are very easy to strip, but they usually have only 12 slots and it will probably be difficult finding a stator that fits it. So they are not really an option.  

I don't want to get too confusing, but the low slot count is not necessarily a game-killer if you can find a commutator with double the contacts, as you can restore the smoothness by dividing the coils with more contacts.  but that's a more advanced topic than we are covering here.

Another option I am considering is to try to cast my own armatures and stators with iron oxide powder and epoxy.  But I am not sure about that either..

Really I do not have all the answers for sourcing the parts easily.  Here in the USA, I can buy the winch I referenced for $55 and grab some dish washer motors at the scrap yard and find what I need. 

I'm hoping a company or provider will step up and help get / produce custom parts for this while agreeing to keep everything opensource.

[olegzhu]

Can you show on this drawing how to wind it?

[Jim Mac]

Can you show on this drawing how to wind it?

   

[Jim Mac]

I stand corrected.  minn kota 30 lb thrust armature fits this dish washer stator almost perfect!

   

Only problem is, 12 contact commutator will make the 6 coils have real choppy rotation.  This is a good match if you can find a 24 contact commutator to replace the stock 12 contact one.  Then it can be wound to flip half the turns of each coil, which will be smoother rotation than a 16 slot / contact rig like I have

[markn]

Good on you. You are letting THE GENIE out of the lamp, be careful what wish you ask for.

Well do me a favor and download the attachment.  If I go silent, let the world know it happened after I released this paper..

This is the secret recipe.  Fully Disclosed.

Congratulations, I think that you found how Lockridge Device is working. There is a tread (https://overunitymachines.com/index.php/...107.0.html) in Ufopolitics site about Lockridge Device, unfortunately Ufopolitics never get an idea about magnetic field rotating opposite to the shaft rotation.

[Jim Mac]

Congratulations, I think that you found how Lockridge Device is working. There is a tread (https://overunitymachines.com/index.php/...107.0.html) in Ufopolitics site about Lockridge Device, unfortunately Ufopolitics never get an idea about magnetic field rotating opposite to the shaft rotation.

Maybe..  One thing is for sure,  phasing of the output is important.  When using single output phase, effect is almost unnoticeable. No drag, but difficult to get the speedup effect.    But when I short or load the 2nd phase at 90, It takes off.  My build can only sustain it's own rotation with both output phases loaded or shorted.  

I am thinking output phases may need to be configured to rotate the field also.  Like 2 phase at 90 or 3 phase at 120 causes rotation.  I will  know after my next build is working, I am going to try 3 phase output next.

[olegzhu]

What if we 3D print the stator and rotor?