Why Virtual Rotating Magnetic Fields May Be The Key

[Jim Mac]

Yea - maybe possible with mercury!..  May come back to that line of thought later.  Cause this thing I made may do it!

Woohoo..  I got the 9 phases nicely!  A little low output power, but the design absolutely makes proper Poly-Phase!

I got 14,400 turns of aluminum wire combined on this baby..  Only if it was designed with strong magnets..   

   

[Jim Mac]

Ok so generator is done and update time..  The phases are correct!  Just the output is soooooo  miserably low there is no way it will ever produce anything worthy..  This current design is equivalent to a generator that passes the side of the large coils with a single 10mm magnet per coil.  So the magnetic field Sucks!   But the P.O.C was a success..  The design will definitely work!

And this made me realize a valid point that must be taken into consideration..  This is NOT 2 magnets on a rotor.  This is a north and a south connecting all the way around the rotor.  If you spin 1 single magnet, it works!  But if you separate 2 magnets to create 2 poles, it doesn't work.  Basically, the magnetic field must be 1n 1 piece 360 degrees around with no weak spots or dead spots.  

Think of a coil rotor in rotation.  The coil has a continuous magnetic field around it with 1 North, 1 South that meet at a Blotch Wall. There is no extra space between them.  

Second Point,  If we are aiming for a special configuration that reduces Lenz Drag, not only does the rotor magnetic field need to be 1 piece continuous, but so does the output circuit!  SO the reaction created by the coil assembly now always interacts with the magnetic field of the rotor at all times in all places.

  I still have a hunch 2-phase 90 degrees separated should work, but the missing ingredient is that it needs to be generated in a balanced fashion where it can return the energy properly like an alternator.  Using amplifiers, mosfets, and other ways seem to be lacking that aspect.

I plan to next toy around with designing a coil-type rotor, so I can control the strength of the rotor's magnetic field. And also design a mount that allows different coil types to be put into place at will..

[Jim Mac]

OK so here goes again..  As I said before, I do not give up easily, so I will get this right.

As I pointed out earlier, I need a rotor that only has 2 poles (North and South) and it needs to be 1 complete magnet..  NOT 2 magnets separated.  So I will try to make a coil wound rotor.  This way it meets my specifications, and I can control the input power and the magnetic field.

So here is the start..  I am using a 1" round galvanized plumbing pipe cut to length as the core.  I know, laminated might be better, but hell, an alternator uses big solid steel claws with no laminations, so I ain't concerned..  

   

Now I want the coil to pull somewhere about 2 amps at 12V, so I will use my 24 AWG copper wire and measure to get a coil going long ways that puts me around the 6 ohm mark.  And it will need 2 slip-rings and brushes to feed the coil..  

The bearing stands are printing now.  I want to design this so I can change coil configurations easily so if 1 idea doesn't work, I can keep trying others.  

Have you ever made a generator where the output wave isn't right, and the sinewave looks like the letter M, where it is supposed to peak it comes down.  That is a result of improper magnet setup, and if you spin 1 solid magnet, that doesn't happen.  So with a coil rotor, this should not be a problem.  

Anyways, I will post when I get this think spinning and can show induction.  Then I will progress to outputs!

[AR_AH]

OK so here goes again..  As I said before, I do not give up easily, so I will get this right.

As I pointed out earlier, I need a rotor that only has 2 poles (North and South) and it needs to be 1 complete magnet..  NOT 2 magnets separated.  So I will try to make a coil wound rotor.  This way it meets my specifications, and I can control the input power and the magnetic field.

So here is the start..  I am using a 1" round galvanized plumbing pipe cut to length as the core.  I know, laminated might be better, but hell, an alternator uses big solid steel claws with no laminations, so I ain't concerned..  



Now I want the coil to pull somewhere about 2 amps at 12V, so I will use my 24 AWG copper wire and measure to get a coil going long ways that puts me around the 6 ohm mark.  And it will need 2 slip-rings and brushes to feed the coil..  

The bearing stands are printing now.  I want to design this so I can change coil configurations easily so if 1 idea doesn't work, I can keep trying others.  

Have you ever made a generator where the output wave isn't right, and the sinewave looks like the letter M, where it is supposed to peak it comes down.  That is a result of improper magnet setup, and if you spin 1 solid magnet, that doesn't happen.  So with a coil rotor, this should not be a problem.  

Anyways, I will post when I get this think spinning and can show induction.  Then I will progress to outputs!

Hi Jim,

Then how would you suppose to create rotational magnetic field with two pole?

[Jim Mac]

Hi Jim,

Then how would you suppose to create rotational magnetic field with two pole?

I will be trying several ideas out.  But the rotating 2 pole rotor induces coils to create poly-phase. (like my last generator did).  Then that polyphase is used to create rotation.  

But I also plan to try some easier drag-neutralization ideas out

[Jim Mac]

New epiphany..

Rotating coil has one coil and one power source.

Creating virtual rotation with two coils that has one power source does not work the same as a single coil in rotation.

The answer is in the infinity symbol.

   

Two coils to create rotation must have two power sources configured to complete the infinity configuration on the source.

Experiments will commence this upcoming days

[Jim Mac]

This is the Ouroboros In the Infinity Configuration.

   

I have drawn in 2 batteries as power sources.

Connect a resistor between one batteries positive and the other batteries negative we now have a standards series battery connection.  If each battery were 12V, we would have 24v across the resistor.

Now place another resistor between the other 2 battery connections.  Now each resistor would have 12V each. Because Voltage drop occurs.

Now when we replace these 2 resistors with inductors and phase them correctly, the possibilities of what we can do with the reciprocal current we induce should become transparent. 

More to come

[Jim Mac]

So so I have been thinking and thinking of how i can set this up.  but the thing that's blocking me is we have no-common ground potentials. But that's a necessary evil..

I have came to the conclusion that if you have 2 separate circuits with 2 sources that has a current path between them-  and the 2 halves need to work in concert, you will NEVER achieve the desired effect if the grounds are bonded.. The entire gain effect hinges on the potentials of the grounds being separate.  

This means if we are using logic controlled circuits to control the actions, we need 2 separate logic circuits, each one grounded to it's respective side of the circuit.  Now comes the issue of synchronizing the 2 circuits that have no physical connection between them.  We can not simple place a wire to synchronize them.

Octo-couplers and such are to no prevail because the ground bond connection from logic to source is directly on the H-bridge boards themselves. 

The obvious solution is we need to use mechanical switching that does not require a bonded ground.  This is why Pierre Cotnoir used contact relays in his DZ Generator as seen here- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wn49fDHCHdo..  Everyone has no clue to why he did not use MOSFETS.  This is the reason.   

I am first trying to avoid mechanical switching for obvious reasons so I am looking into other configurations, but may ultimately need to resort to commutators again.  We will see...

[Jim Mac]

It takes some 3D thinking skills to understand what I am saying..

Think of a Teeter Totter.  As one side goes UP, the other side goes DOWN.  
Now add a 2nd teeter totter at the same axis point that works opposite to the first. 

So the teeter totters are forming an X

   

So now we have a perfect Resonance between the 2 sides.  As one teeter positive is growing, the other teeter positive is shrinking and a mirror reflection is happening on the negatives. 

Now we completed the Ouroboros Pattern Where your energy must travel through the opposite teeter in the direction that supports it's flow.  

   

   

Now to the Big mistake we all been making..  Take the 2 negative sides of the teeter totter and screw them together to bond or combine the grounds to 1 reference point.  


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We now DESTRUCTED the entire scheme.  The negative side is just as important as the positive side and the entire flow of the Ouroboros is RUINED.

We can not connect the grounds directly together.  With the Figuera or any other device using these Polyphase techniques, care must be taken to manage this correctly.

As I pointed out many times now, Figuera's patent has a missing line (but the remnants are there)  and Buforn shows us this.

   

[Jim Mac]

Another way to view it..

The Figuera device is like Scissors..  One positive is growing and one shrinking.  

   

While your hand is applying force in opposite directions, the other end of the scissors is mirroring the side your fingers are moving. 

So when we grow and shrink the Positive Wires of the EL-magnets- the negative wires are experiencing the same change (but mirrored).  

Now what happens when we tape the blades of the scissors shut?   When we "Bond" them together, now it becomes extremely difficult to open the scissors, and we can only open them as far as the tape stretches.  

Bonding the grounds on the Figuera device destructs the whole principle.