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Ok I order some thyristors and Zener diodes I just need to wait for them, I also successfully conditioned a220uF capacitor (it is sitting on a table slowly charging itself from 0v) I also built a kromrey generator but I only have two 220uF caps which probably isn’t enough
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01-30-2026, 01:33 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-30-2026, 01:35 PM by grant.)
it looks like this is just a modified bedini motor, I previously built a kromrey generator however I could not get it to go a fast enough rpm, and the bedini motor is a much better device anyway, I will build the circuit but I will need a bigger cap dump as I dont want to condition my batteries directly. I also have all the parts to build it
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03-29-2026, 11:14 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-29-2026, 11:41 AM by dgreen264.)
Having messed about with this circuit for a while now, I would say the following: Split the cap dump and cold elec gen into two completely separate units. This will simplify things greatly.
The cap dump can simply be a self-contained box with two connecting wires to the battery, and that's all. It contains a HV booster DC-DC converter to give say 150V, which charges a 470uF 160V cap through a 30k resistor. A neon triggers the thyristor which discharges the cap back to battery. Thyristor cathode to batt+, anode to cap+. (cap- to batt-). It will trigger about once every 20sec with these values. Continuous desulphation!
The resistor value should be such that the charging current is always less than the holding current of the thyristor, so it switches off once the cap is discharged. The neon should flash and trigger the thyristor, but in the case where it stays on a NPN HV transistor could be used to amplify the current to the gate. (Also add a 100R resistor to gate to limit peak current)
Another thing: Put a low value resistor (say 10ohms) in series with the input to the voltage booster, with a zener (say 33V for a 24V system) across the input to the boost reg directly. This prevents overvolting the device when the cap discharges.
Be careful of going too high on volts & energy with the capacitor, as this can be dangerous if the battery is gassing and a spark is caused in the battery. Always be cautious!!
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What do you mean when you say it is not working. Is it not causing the wheel to spin? Is it not charging the charge battery? My first suggestion would be to reverse the leads from the trigger coil. What exactly does the scope show when you say it shows the transistor is triggering? Also check that you have the diode in the right direction. Does adjusting the pot make any difference? What kind of magnets do you have on the wheel. They need to be regular ceramic magnets, NOT neos. If you disconnect the charge battery does the neon bulb flash? If it does then quickly connect the battery back up so you don't blow the transistor. If the bulb flashes then the circuit is working.
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Why do they need to be regular ceramic magnets, NOT NdFeB magnets ?
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Hi Verpies.
The only purpose of the magnets is to trigger the transistor. Using neos make it much harder to get the circuit to work properly. The impulse from neos is just too strong to properly trigger the transistor.
Csrroll
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when I say the circuit is not working i mean the wheel does not spin, nor does the neon light. according to the scope the voltage across base-emitter goes +- 0.65V which should be enough to trigger the transistor, and during the positive half the voltage across collector emitter drops to 0V