Help with Building an overunity device

[citfta]

Thanks for more info.  I use electric fence wire which is almost the same as baling wire so the core should be fine.  26 gauge wire is rather small for the power winding.  So you might try putting two of them in parallel.  I do not use Google drive so I could not see the scope shots you posted there.  I thought you could post pictures here but I am new here so I might be wrong about that.  Did you see any difference in the scope shots as compared to the video scope shots?  I also noticed in the video that your coil was pretty tall in relation to the diameter.  I normally try to build my coils so that the diameter and the length are about the same.  In other words looking at the coil from the side it is almost a square.  Not sure that has anything to do with your problem, just sharing what I have done that has worked.

As some additional information.  When the circuit is tuned properly the average current draw will be around 150 to 200 milliamps. Of course the spike when the transistor gets pulsed on will be much higher.

When you have time please do another video after you have connected the power wires in parallel and when you are using the current probe on your scope.  I am looking forward to what that will reveal.

[grant]

ok, I will make another video tomorrow, I think you are right about the coil needing more winds, the spool that it is wound on is 3" x 3", the scope shots show that collector-emitter voltage only drops to 80% of the battery voltage, meaning it is not fully turning on, which could be improved by larger base-emitter voltage which would come from more winds on the coil. also I just figured out how to post photos (you have to do a full replay instead of quick reply)

[grant]

could adding more magnets to my wheel increase base emitter voltage? I currently don't have as many as there should be.

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PS. I ran out of magnet wire and I really don't want to buy more, is there some kind of work around?

[unimmortal]

Adding more magnets will only affect 'how frequently' the coil is pulsed.

Maybe rewind your 'sense' coil with a smaller diameter to get more turns?

[citfta]

ok, I will make another video tomorrow, I think you are right about the coil needing more winds, the spool that it is wound on is 3" x 3", the scope shots show that collector-emitter voltage only drops to 80% of the battery voltage, meaning it is not fully turning on, which could be improved by larger base-emitter voltage which would come from more winds on the coil. also I just figured out how to post photos (you have to do a full replay instead of quick reply)

I understand you don't have enough wire.  And wire like everything else has gotten pretty expensive.  Do you have an appliance repair shop near you that repairs washing machines?  A common failure on washing machines is the pump motor.  I know most brands use very similar motors that have a pair of coils on them.  Most of the repair shops have a large collection of old pump motors they have replaced and they may give you a few of them.  I have gotten several of them that way. You can then get plenty of wire by unwinding the coils.  I haven't tried it but you might be able to use the coils like they are since there are two of them.  You would need to orient them in the right way to get the triggering at the right time.  I am not at home right now but when I get back I will try that idea and let you know if it works.  I won't be home until Monday so it will be a little while before I can try that.  If I can find a picture online of the pump motor I am talking about I'll post it later.

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/114196491141?_s...R-7qi4arZw

This is the kind of pump motor I am talking about. You of course will have to take it apart but that is pretty easy.

[citfta]

Hi again Grant,

I'm sorry but I have forgotten to give you a very basic test you need to do first. It's been a while since I helped someone get this circuit working so I forgot this basic test. What you need to do first is to make sure the polarity of the power coil is correct. You do this by having a magnet right over the core of the coil. Then you quickly connect and disconnect 12 volts to the coil. If the polarity is correct the coil will give a kick to the magnet to kick it away from the core. If instead it attracts the magnet to the core then you need to switch the coil connections. If this is not correct the wheel will not spin even if everything else is correct. Sorry that I forgot to have you check this first.

Carroll

[grant]

Hi again Grant,

I'm sorry but I have forgotten to give you a very basic test you need to do first.  It's been a while since I helped someone get this circuit working so I forgot this basic test.  What you need to do first is to make sure the polarity of the power coil is correct.  You do this by having a magnet right over the core of the coil.  Then you quickly connect and disconnect 12 volts to the coil.  If the polarity is correct the coil will give a kick to the magnet to kick it away from the core.  If instead it attracts the magnet to the core then you need to switch the coil connections.  If this is not correct the wheel will not spin even if everything else is correct.  Sorry that I forgot to have you check this first.

Carroll

More wire is on the way because all my tests show that my coil is the problem, due to base-emitter voltage not being high enough.
although I suspect my core could be an issue (not concentrating the fields well enough) but I doubt it as that exact core has been used by lots of builders,
I also double checked that my transistor is working (it is)

[grant]

it will be about 3-4 weeks to arrive

[Verpies]

More wire is on the way because all my tests show that my coil is the problem, due to base-emitter voltage not being high enough.

BJTs are not voltage controlled devices.  Their hFE or beta is defined as the ratio of the collector current to the base current.
The voltage measured between the base and emitter does not exceed 0.7V in this type of transistors.