Help with Building an overunity device

[grant]

I tried building a Imhotep relay circuit, and measured input and output power, input was about 6x higher than output, what am I doing wrong? I used this video mainly as reference https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uigY2kqm...gGBA%3D%3D
I also tried a joule thief charger and captret circuit and still no luck.
Any suggestions on how to get this circuit working (or a different circuit that could proof over-unity) would be greatly appreciated!
I can provide oscilloscope/meter readings or pictures of my setup

[unimmortal]

Try this one, seems really straight forward:

https://youtu.be/PlPTs28ayX8?si=8pNBD8mhWIBRO0d3

What would happen if you had a second coil collapsing across the neon as the primary coil was filling?

[grant]

That is the same circuit I built, although I did no modifications to my relay, when I turn on the circuit it does oscillate and my scope shows 400Vpp but despite this I cannot get the neon bulb to turn on, I think having two coils opposite is a good idea (though I'm not sure yet how that would work), but the bulb should show something without it. The relay I am using is a 12vdc 20A relay (it does not have a coil resistor) and the neon bulb. When I place the neon bulb as in the diagram, my scope shows no significant voltage drop

[dgreen264]

Some relays have an internal diode across the coil precisely to prevent high voltage back emf. These relays are not suitable - you need one without internal diode.

Also it's no good measuring input power and output power with this circuit. The electricity is 'cold' electricity and the batteries charge more efficiently using this. But you can't measure this type of electricity.

Bedini talks a lot about this ('radiant' energy he calls it), and also Rick Friedrich.

As I understand it and from what I've read the battery becomes conditioned to this type of electricity over time and with many charge/discharge cycles, and then once conditioned begins to charge much more efficiently apparently achieveing a very good COP. Larger battery banks are better.

Also it is said that it generally doesn't work well if you swap the drive and charging batteries because one is conditioned and the other is not.
You could try supercapacitors instead of batteries.

[grant]

I just wanted to clear something up, I built the circuit in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_TjxV3c7pTo
not the other more complex one using a 555 timer, and thank you for saying I should condition the batteries, I hooked up the circuit to a lead-acid battery and it is currently running.
also my neon bulb still doesn't light up.

[dgreen264]

Hi Grant If you're measuring 400V and the neon doesn't light up then either the neon is blown (got air inside) or you're not really getting the volts. Small neon will light with about 60-70V, bigger neon about 90-110V. Try another neon.

Also dismantle the relay make sure there's no electronics in it, i.e. make sure it's just a coil and contacts, nothing else.

I think the circuit in the video you're using is the best one because it is the simplest and uses an actual spark. The goal is to generate a sharp gradient in voltage and/or current. You can do this with mosfets but a spark is likely to give a sharper gradient, especially with high volts.
This sharp change in voltage generates the negative energy, as Tom Bearden explains in his book Free ENergy Generation.

Once conditioned the batteries don't accept normal methods of charging as easily and so its best to have a dedicated battery that gets charged with this circuit and then use the energy once its charged.

[dgreen264]

Second thoughts. When the charging battery is connected, the voltage will only rise to battery volts + diode drop, so the neon shouldn't light up except when battery is disconnected.

What is the purpose of the neon? It serves a visual check so you can see that high voltage is being generated prior to connecting the battery. Also it clamps the voltage so it can't go any higher than the neon breakover voltage.

[dgreen264]

ps You'll probably find that if the battery is connected by long wires to the circuit then the neon will light (a bit), due to the inductance of the wires thus allowing one end the wire to be high volts while the other is low.

[dgreen264]

THe neon may also fail to light due to the pulse width being too low, even if the volts are there

[grant]

yes, I agree that the neon not lighting is likely because there is not enough pulse width, I tested it with two seperate neons and still no luck. if I use super capacitors, will they require conditioning or are they ready to use immediately?
Also how long is too long to condition a lead-acid battery? the one i have, i have been running the circuit for a full day now and the battery voltage is still not above it's nominal 12v, should I keep it running until it reaches ~15? (also sorry for a later reply)
actually I am going to test the neon with a 220uF cap across the output as i tested that earlier and managed to get to ~90V